Read 'Pollination of Cucumbers, Squash, and Melons' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

As you plant cucumbers, squash, and melons you may think about the possibility of these plants cross pollinating and producing fruits with off flavors or some bizarre new fruit you would not want to eat. Have no fear, the fruit from these plants will all be just as expected in regard to appearance and taste. Yes, some squash may cross pollinate with other squash but the fruit will not be effected because it has the genetic material of only the plant that produced it, that is, the plant that you put into the ground. The seed is another matter. It is a product of the pollination and may contain genetic material from two different plants. If they are unrelated, any plant that grows from that seed will reflect the genetic make up of both parents, for better or worse.

Cross pollination will make a big difference to gardeners who like to save the seed for next year’s garden so lets take a look at what kinds of melons, squash, and cucumbers will cross pollinate. The key is to take notice of the species name of the plant (that’s the second word of the botanical name). Members of the same species can cross pollinate but members of different species can not. Here are some of the common kinds of squash, melons and cucmbers you may grow.

Group A Cucurbita pepo:

Summer squash
Yellow crook or straight neck
Zucchini, Cocozelle
Scallop/patty pan

Winter Squash
Acorn
Spaghetti

Gourds and many other ornamental types.

Many pumpkins including Cinderella, Big Tom, and Connecticut Field.

Group B Curcurbita moschata

Winter Squash
Butternut squash

Pumpkins
Cheese
Dickinson Field
Golden Cushaw
Kentucky Field

Group C Cucurbita maxima

Winter squash
Hubbard

Pumpkins
Big Max
King of the Mammoths
Mammoth Chile
Mammoth Prize
Atlantic Giant

Ornamental
Alladin
Turk’s Turban

Group D Cucurbita mixta:

Pumpkin
Green-Striped Cushaw
Japanese Pie
Tennessee Sweet Potato
White Cushaw
Mixta Gold

Group E Cucumis sativus:

All slicing and pickling cucumbers EXCEPT:
Armenian
Beit
Alpha cucumbers
Lemon cucumbers

Group F Cucumis melo:

Cucumbers
Armenian
Snake cucumber or Serpent melon
Melons
All muskmelons
Casabas
Honeydew

Group G Citrullus lanatus:

All watermelons
All citrons

The key to this whole thing is the group in which a plant belongs. Members of the same group can cross pollinate; the fruit/vegetable will be as expected but the seeds may not produce the offspring you expect. Plants in different groups do not cross pollinate so fruit/vegetable and seeds will be as expected and the seeds can be collected and used to produce new plants. If you want to grow plants in the same group and have reliable seed you can do so but you will have to grow the plants ¼-1 mile apart depending on the species!

Read 'Four Roses Join the Earth-Kind Roses List' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

The Fairy

The four roses that recently received the Earth-Kind designation are repeat-blooming and long-lived so offer a lot for your investment in time, money, and space.

‘Cecile Brunner’
Also known as the ‘Sweetheart Rose’, ‘Cecile Brunner’ bears waves of light pink fragrant flowers in airy clusters, typically with 10-15 flowers. Each flower develops from a slender bud and resembles a miniature hybrid tea but, unfortunately, they fade quickly in the sun. The bush is vigorous, almost thornless and tolerates light dappled afternoon shade but thrives in full sun.

'Cecile Brunner'

Classification group: Polyantha.
Flower color: Coral pink in the center and pinky white at the edges.
Flower size: 2”.
Scent: Medium, sweet and musky.
Bush size: 4’ H x 3”W*
Hardiness: Zones 5-9.
Use: Border with annuals and perennials.

‘La Marne’
The semi-double pink flowers have ruffled petals and are produced in loose clusters of 5-20. The upright bush is thornless, bears dark leaves, and always has a neat appearance in the garden.

'La Marne'

Classification group: Polyantha.
Flower color: Deep pink with white centers and yellow stamens.
Flower size: 2”.
Scent: Light and musky.
Bush size: 4-6’ H x 4-5’ W*
Hardiness: Zones 5-9.

‘Reve d’Or’
This climber produces double yellow flowers singly or in clusters of up to 15 flowers. The first wave of flowers is the most floriferous but subsequent waves continue until early winter. The bush is graced with large, deep green, glossy leaves that are nearly evergreen and the canes are thin, flexible and with few thorns so easily woven into place.

'Reve d'Or'

Classification group: Noisette.
Flower color: Medium yellow.
Flower size: 2.4”
Scent: Strong and tea-like.
Bush Size: 10-18’ H x 8’ W*
Hardiness: Zones 7-9 (prefers warmer climates).
Use: Arbors, arches, pergolas and other landscape structures.

‘Souv de St Anne’s’
This sport of the famous ‘Souv de la Malmison’, produces pink semidouble flowers with a spicy fragrance that perfumes the entire area. The large, bushy shrubs are especially appreciated near a doorway or window where the scent can be enjoyed.

'Souvenir de St. Anne's'

Classification group: Bourbon Rose.
Flower color: Blush pink.
Flower size: 4”.
Scent: Strong, sweet, spicy.
Bush Size: 5-7’ H x 4’ W*
Hardiness: Zones 5-9.
Use: Mass plantings; border.

Check out the website for more information on these and other Earth-Kind roses: http://earthkindroses.tamu.edu.

*Bush size varies greatly with climate especially temperature.

Read 'Ten Tips for Growing Broccoli' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

The cool weather of spring and fall invites the planting of broccoli, a vegetable that is tasty, versatile, and good for you. A ½ cup of cooked fresh broccoli contains 23 calories and two anti oxidants, beta carotene and vitamin C, that help ward off cancer especially colon and rectal cancer. Broccoli is delicious raw with a dip or in salad, steamed with our without a sauce, in stir fry, and as part of a casserole. It teams well with chicken, turkey, beef, and ham and makes a hearty soup with cheese. If nothing I have mentioned tempts you, consider that it makes a wonderful addition to flower arrangements. Yes, broccoli can be classified as floral; those tiny green nobs that are eaten are the buds of flowers that open with yellow petals if left in the garden or refrigerator too long.

Here are ten tips for growing this wonderful vegetable.

1. Grow in cool weather only, that is spring or fall in most of the country. Broccoli is frost hardy and grows best when temperatures are under 85 degrees.
2. Buy seedlings rather than start from seed so that you can get the plants established quickly and bearing their crop, which takes between 55 and 60 days.
3. Heat tolerance and side shoot tolerance are important considerations in choosing broccoli varieties. Good varieties for home gardens include ‘Cruiser’, ‘Green Comet’, ‘Green Goliath’, ‘Green Hornet’,’ Packman’, and ‘Premium Crop’. Realistically, you will probably not have much choice as to variety; local retailers often carry the best variety for the area so give whatever they have a try.
4. Choose and prepare a site in full sun with reasonable fertile, well-drained moist soil high in organic matter with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Soil test results will give you specific recommendations for any crop you specify.
5. Set out seedling about 2 weeks before the last frost in spring; for autumn planting count back from the first frost 10 days plus the “days to harvest’. Plant seedlings 18”-24” apart with 24”-36” between rows.
6. Fertilize when planting with 20:20:20 liquid fertilizer according to directions and then again with high nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are about half grown.
7. Water regularly, making sure that the plants get at least 1-1 ½” per week. A much will help keep the soil evenly moist.
8. Watch for white, gray, or brown moths hovering around your plants; they lay their eggs on broccoli and other related crops. The caterpillars that develop from the eggs are voracious eaters and will probably destroy your crop. Covering your broccoli with nets before they arrive is the best way to prevent damage. Aphids can also be a problem but can be removed with a forceful jet of water or a garlic in water spray you can concoct at home.
9. ‘Buttons’ may form if conditions are unfavorable (like drought or heat). Buttons are tiny heads that form under stress.
10. Harvest when heads are large and firm and the flowers forming the heads are still tight green buds. Cut stems about 5-6” long but don’t discard the plants as side shoots can form more (but smaller) heads in the axils of the leaves for several weeks.

Store the unwashed broccoli in a plastic bag in your refrigerator for 5 days or more but it is definitely better when used by the 5th day. Watch for mold and for yellowing that is the result of the broccoli flowers opening their yellow petals. These open flowers can be eaten in salads and used effectively as a garnish on pasta or other foods.

Read 'How to Care for Roses in Winter' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

Roses take a rest in winter and so can the rose caregiver once the rose beds have been properly prepared. Winter care is not difficult but is important to protect the rose bushes and ensure that they will produce good flowers the following spring. Hopefully, the roses have slowly gone dormant due to the effects the lower temperature and shorter day length of fall and the caregiver has encouraged this process by not deadheading or picking the roses and NOT applying mulch. After a hard freeze has made sure that the roses are dormant you can begin.

1. Pruning. The tall canes of most modern roses (hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, polyanths) should be cut back to about 3 feet in order to prevent ice, snow and wind damage. This is important because damaged canes are susceptible to canker infection. Long canes of old garden roses should be cut back to avoid similar problems.

2. The soil around new plants should be checked for a funnel like depression that exposes the bud union. This depression is caused by wind and should be filled so that cold does not enter the soil and damage the bud union.

3. Some roses will need to be mulched to protect them from cold damage. This is especially true of teas and chinas but some hybrid teas are tender and will need mulch too. Exposed bud unions should be covered with mulch.

4. If you live in an area with acid soil, apply lime. Lime moves very slowly in the soil; it is washed into the soil by winter rains and takes several months to become available to the roses. Apply liberally over the whole bed rather than around individual bushes so that you make as much soil rose-friendly as possible. Lime affects pH and pH affects the nutrient uptake of the roses so this is an important step in rose care.

5. After cleaning the beds and disposing of the dead leaves and canes, spray lime-sulphur at dormant strength on the bushes and the soil around them. This needs to be done before new leaves appear because the lime-sulphur will kill any that persist. Also, the spraying must be done when the temperature is 50 F or warmer until the spray dries.

6. Spray plants with Wilt-pruf or a similar product to reduce drying. This must be done after the lime-sulphur application has weathered or the Wilt-pruf may seal off the spores of mildew and blackspot and reduce the effectiveness of the lime-sulphur.

7. Weed out any undesirable winter weeds like chickweed that will produce seeds with a few days of warm weather. Doing this now will save hours of weeding later when the thousands of seeds from these devils germinate.

8. If you haven’t planned ahead for your new roses get started. The catalogues come early and many roses are sold out by January 1st. Get your order in as soon as possible; your order will be shipped any time you choose.

With the work done you can sit back and enjoy the rose catalogues and anticipate the beauty that will come in spring. Warm days will draw you out to the rose garden but resist the urge to prune as you will only encourage new growth that will be killed by frost.

Read 'How to Prepare the Rose Garden for Winter' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

Autumn in my rose garden is a beautiful time. The sunny days and cool, longer nights give the blooms more time to grow and develop so the flowers are larger and the colors are more intense. This is a time to enjoy the rose garden and begin to prepare for winter. Nature prepares the roses for survival by putting them into a dormant condition in response to cooler temperatures and shorter days and all you have to do is encourage this dormancy. As the plant goes into dormancy the cell walls thicken providing protection against damage by freezing temperatures. Damaged plants are more susceptible to pests and diseases that weaken the plants for the year to come so you want to do what you can to get the plants into dormancy.

Timing is the most important aspect of rose care at this time. There are 2 significant dates: the time of the first frost and the time of hard freezes (usually about a month or so after the first frost). Find out your first frost date and plan accordingly.

Most roses take about 5-6 weeks or a bloom cycle so about -6 weeks before the first frost in your area do the following:

1. Stop fertilizing. Fertilizer will stimulate growth but the new growth will not be mature enough to survive the winter and a damaged plant will result. (Remember, damaged bushes are more susceptible to diseases and pests.)
2. Stop deadheading (removing faded blooms). A rose plant’s role in life is to reproduce by producing seed. If you remove the seeds by cutting the flowers the plant will produce more flowers and not go into dormancy. If you don’t like the look of the dead petals just remove the petals leaving the “hips” (the enlarged area at the base of the petals that contains the seeds).
3. Have a soil test by your local extension office and add lime if needed (usually about a cup per bush). Scratch the lime into the soil surface being careful not to disturb the roots.
4. Get rid of all dead leaves and petals in the rose beds because they harbor fungal spores and the eggs and grubs of insect pests.

N.B. If you have a regular spray program continue it as it does not hurt the dormancy process and will protect the leaves and flowers from disfiguring damage.

After the second or third hard freeze (temperatures below 28 degrees F) the plants will have gone into dormancy and you can proceed.

1. For most roses, prune long canes that might be blown by the wind to about waist height. Minis should be pruned to knee-high height, old garden roses as little as possible.
2. Spray with a anti-desiccant spray such as Wilt Pruf or Cloud Cover to protect the canes from drying out.
3. Mound 10″-12″ mulch (half as much for minis) such as chopped leaves or pine needles around the base of each rose. These will feed the bushes in spring as well as protect them in winter.

If you live in a mild area you may not need to mulch especially if your roses are not grafted and are grown on their own root. ‘Own root” roses may die back entirely but will probably sprout in the spring and grow into good sized bushes.

With no rose chores to do you can plan for next year. Design new beds, get out the catalogues, and order by December (for spring delivery) so you can have more beautiful roses next year.

Read 'Summer Blooming Plants for Gardens in Afternoon Shade' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

Have you ever noticed how many plant labels tell you that the plant needs 6-8 hours of sun? Many plants do have high light needs but many other beautiful plants love afternoon shade. You need to carefully evaluate your shade and plan accordingly. You have to make sure that they are getting adequate water (1” per week is normal); mulching will help retain moisture as well as provide nutrients.  Here are some beautiful plants that will bloom during the summer in a site with afternoon shade, or to turn it around, morning sun.

For height at the back of the border try Queen of the Prairie (Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta”) with its pink airy flowers. Hardy in zones 3-9, it grows over 5’ tall.

Goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus) with its large plume-like inflorescence of creamy white flowers has foliage that remains attractive all season. Growing to 4’ it is hardy in zones 3-7.

You can’t beat garden phlox ‘Mt. Fuji’ (Phlox paniculata) for the shear beauty of their outstanding flowers. Twelve to fifteen inch panicles arise on 3’ stems. Hardy in zones 4-8.

There are many astilbes that do well in afternoon shade but most bloom in the spring. Astilbe taquetii ‘Superba’ is summer blooming. It is tall, growing up to 4’ and have beautiful fern like foliage and lilac panicles of small flowers. It is hardy in zones 4-8.

Beebalm (Monarda didyma) offers unusual flowers in a variety of colors including ceres, scarlet, pink, violet-blue, purple, and creamy white. Growing to 3-4’ tall they are attractive to hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees and are hardy in zones 4-9.

Hollyhock mallow ‘Fastigiata’  (Malva  alcea) grows about 2’ tall and carries rose-pink flowers. It is hardy in zones 4-8 and has a long bloom season. Dwarf forms are available too.

Lobelia, both Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) and Great Blue (Lobelia syphilitica), are good plants for middle of the border. Cardinal flower grows 2-4’ tall and is hardy in zones 2-9.

Great Blue Lobelia grows 2-3’ and is hardy in zones 4-8.

False dragonhead (Physostegia virginiana) also known as Obedient plant because of the way the flower can be turned on the stem and stay that way, grows up to 3’ tall and is hardy in zones 2-9. The cultivar ‘Vivid’ is shorter and more compact so may be more useful in the shade garden.

Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana) grows up to 2’ tall and comes with blue, purple, red, or white flowers. It is a trooper of a plant, very adaptable, and begins blooming in spring. It is hardy in zones 4-9.

Campanula carpatica “Blue Chip’ is a very low growing powerhouse of blooms. It produces vivid blue bells over a mounded cushion of heart-shaped foliage. It multiples rapidly but is easy to keep in bounds, is deer resistant, and hardy in zones 3-8. This is a great plant for the front of the border.

There are many kinds of sedum and this is one that really stands out. ‘Dragon’s Blood’ (Sedum spurium ‘Dragon’s Blood ) is a prostrate ground cover with red flowers and dark green leaves suffused with purplish bronze that turn red in the winter. It is hardy in zones 3-8.

Most lists of this kind include hostas but I am not doing so because I think they are grown more for their foliage than their flowers. That is not to say that their flowers are not lovely; they are and I include many of them in my shade garden. Just remember that blue green hosta like a lot of shade while yellow green hostas prefer more sun. This a generalization so check with your local nurseryman/women when purchasing a hosta.

There are many bright colored flowers that can bring color to a garden with afternoon shade.  Give some a try!

Read 'Ten Terrific Plants with Chartreuse Flowers' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

Chartreuse, or lime green, is a color that has always appeals to me and so I am drawn to plants that have either chartreuse flowers or chartreuse leaves. Chartreuse stands out any place and goes with almost every other color so it is easy to use in the garden. I have written on some of my favorite plants with chartreuse foliage and now I turn to plants with chartreuse flowers. I have chosen plants of various types and that bloom at different times so that if you like chartreuse flowers you can enjoy them for as long as possible during the gardening season.

In winter, Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis) blooms with its simple flowers set off by its handsome foliage even when snow covers the ground. Not all plants of this species have green flowers so you might want to try stinking hellebore (Helleborus foetidus) which more reliably has chartreuse flowers but blooms considerably later.

During the spring, snowball viburnum (V. macrocephala) present chartreuse heads of flowers that slowly change to white. A bush covered with lime green flower heads is a magnificent sight! These flower heads are prized by florists and used extensively in spring bridal work and you may have appreciated them in that role.

Late spring brings the fluffy heads of lady’s mantle’s (Alcmillea mollis) flowers billowing over soft gray-green foliage. As beautiful as the color of the flowers is, the plants are worth growing for their foliage alone so this is really a two for one deal. Stems of Lady’s Mantle flowers are beautiful in arrangements as well as being a knock out in the garden.

As spring turns into summer cushion spurge (Eurphobia x martini ‘Tiny Tim’) produces unusual flowers that are conspicuous because of their chartreuse bracts. These 12” compact, mound forming plants provide color all summer and are handsome at the front of the border.

The hydrangea (H. paniculata) ‘Limelight’ is a popular shrub with large bushy panicles of chartreuse flowers that slowly change from white to pink and end up burgundy in the fall. The green color is best in cooler climates but the plant does well in zones 3-8, growing about 6′-8′ tall. Heads can be dried for winter use.

The green variety of the annual love-lies-bleeding (Amaranthus viridflora) is a show stopper! Its long tassels of tiny chartreuse flowers are like no other. The plant is quite large and course but the tassels of great assets in the garden, and in arrangements. This plant has a special place in my heart because I won the admiration of all my coworkers when I showed up at a florist’s dinner wearing a corsage featuring its flowering tassels. This is another flower that dries well for fall arrangements.

Another annual with chartreuse flowers zinnia (Z. elegans) ‘Green Envy. Like many chartreuse flowers, the best color is developed if the plants are grown in partial shade especially where summers are hot. The 2” wide flowers are carried on tall stems up to 30” in length and are lovely in arrangements.

The 3” wide flowers of perennial coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) ‘Coconut Lime’ has a brownish-gold cone surrounded by frilled chartreuse petals ringed with backward swept white petals. Definitely an odd look and maybe not chartreuse enough as the dominant color is white.

The summer blooming bulb Gladiolus ‘Green Star’ sends up tall stem (up to 60”) full of beautiful chartreuse flowers. It blooms from mid-summer until frost and begins blooming 60-100 days after planting. Glads are always popular as cut flowers providing both height and a spike-like form. You get a lot o bang for your buck with glads.

Autumn stonecrop (Sedum ‘Citrus Twist’) offers good foliage as well as attractive flowers. It forms bush mounds of waxy green leaves flushed with purple early in the season and 18” stems with large colorful heads of chartreuse flowers late in the season. The flowers attracts butterflies and produce seed heads that give winter interest.

There are many flowers that have a touch of chartreuse or various shades of green. Others may have chartreuse only at certain times of their development or under certain conditions. Regardless, flowers with this wonderful color are always useful and fun to have in the garden. If you don’t have any, try some; maybe just one this summer. You like them.

Read 'Six Special Plants with Chartreuse Foliage' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

Chartreuse has always been one of my favorite colors when selecting plants. Most of those that sport chartreuse do so with their foliage so I have many of them, less of those with chartreuse flowers. When a gardening friend looked into my secret garden at all the chartreuse plants and expressed her delight I began to think more about them than I had in the past. Why had I picked so many? Not just because I like them but more because I like how they look with other plants in the garden. Chartreuse brightens any spot where it grows and calls for attention. It goes with almost every other color and so is a good companion plant to most other plants in the garden. I begin today with a post on favorite foliage in chartreuse and will follow with favorite flowers in chartreuse, and then finally, favorite combinations involving chartreuse plants.

By the word ‘chartreuse’ I mean the color between green and yellow; perhaps lime is the one word that conveys the meaning most accurately.

1. The ubiquitus Sweet potato vine( Ipomea batatas) ‘Margarita’, is a wonder with its large chartreuse leaves and very rapid, vigorous growth. Not hardy, but easy to find even at the big box stores, and relatively inexpensive. If you dig up the huge tubers you can over winter them and begin again in the spring. Most people seem to use them in planters but they are equally effective used as a ground cover. This sweet potato flowers for some people but so far, not for me.

2. Creeping jenny (Lysymachia nummularia ‘Aurea’) is another marvelous ground cover that can be grown in sun or shade (better chartreuse color in the latter) in the garden, or in a container. My favorite use is in pots, trailing over the edge to the ground (where they root and take off). Creeping jenny is hardy and will come back year after year even though other perennials cover it up in the course of the summer.

3. Coralbells (Heuchera) ‘Key Lime Pie’ is a tuft of chartreuse beauty. Their palmately veined leaves are nearly evergreen and provide interest from early spring well into the fall. They grow in sun or shade but appreciate afternoon shade in the South. In spring they send up airy stems with tiny bell shaped flowers producing a wonderful, old fashioned look, like the lace on great grandmother’s handerchief.

4. Elephant Ear (Colocasia esculenta) ‘Elena’ will provide architectural interest and be a real “Wow” plant in your garden. These large plants bear very large leaves and give a tropical look to any environment. They like moist, rich, humus soil, bright light but not direct sun, and are hardy to zone 7b. If they are grown in pots they can be over wintered in a cold garage. Alternatively, you can dig up the large bulbs and store them until spring.

5. Golden Japanese Forest Grass (Hakenachloa macra) ‘Aureola’ will add more than just color to your garden; when a breeze blows the cascading leaves flutter and give movement to the garden scene. It is hardy in zones 6-9 and develops its best color in part shade. Too much sun will scorch the leaves. Rich, moist, soil will make it happy.

6. There are many hostas that have chartreuse foliage but here are three that are especially noteworthy and fairly easy to find. ‘Sum and Substance’ is a huge one with very large, textured leaves and lavender flowers in late summer. ‘Piedmont Gold’ is medium sized and bears extra wavy golden green leaves and white flowers in mid summer. ‘Gold Edger’ is a small hosta with heart-shaped leaves and a mass of lavender flowers in mid-summer. Many other hostas have leaves that combine green, gold, chartreuse,and blue-green in beautiful combinations. There is a hosta in every possible combination of these colors and in many different sizes. Some, like ‘Sum and Substance’ tolerate sun while others need shade, but there is no doubt that there is a hosta that will meet your needs.

'Sum and Substance'

'Gold Edger'

'Piedmont Gold'

If you think that chartreuse foliage might be something you would like to use in your garden consider plants with chartreuse flowers. But that’s another post.

Read 'Six Tips for Growing Vegetables in Containers' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

If you want to grow vegetables but have no garden space, there is still hope if you have a patio or balcony. Many vegetables can grow successfully in containers and provide visual interest and beauty to your outdoor living space. You can even plant them with flowers to provide color through the season. Here is a checklist of items to consider:

1. Light
The amount of sun or light on your growing area is probably the most important limiting factor so check out the light situation first remembering that you can move the containers around to catch the sun if necessary. Evaluate your shade as not all shade is the same and all vegetables will need some light. There are vegetables that have to have full sun and others that can tolerate part shade but will produce less than if they had more sun. If the amount of light is limited, try lettuce, cabbage, kale, leeks, spinach, swiss chard, and/or mustard greens (also herbs such as parsley and chives). Root crops such as green onions, beets, carrots, and turnips need more light but tolerate some shade. With full sun (at least 6 hours) you can grow snap beans, cucumbers, eggplants, onions, peppers, potatoes, tomatoes and squash.

2. Space
If you have plenty of sun, the next item to consider is the amount of space the crop will need to do well and produce fruit/vegetables. In addition, some plants, like squash, pole beans, and cucumbers, are very large and so you will need to have a large area to meet their space needs. Some vegetables come in small or dwarf varieties but others don’t so you will have to pick and choose. Try to find a small variety with large fruit and NEVER pick a variety that says “Whooper”. Here’s a list of some vegetables and their space requirements (the list is by no means inclusive but will help give you an idea of what is possible). For root crops consider the length of the roots and make sure that your container is deep enough to can accommodate them.

Half Gallon:
Parsley (and many other herbs)

One Gallon:
Cabbage
Lettuce (Oakleaf, Black Seeded Simpson, Buttercrunch)
Spinach (American Viking, Long Standing, Bloomsdale, Melody)
Swiss chard (Fordhook Giant, Luculluscherry),
Dwarf tomatoes (for small tomatoes-Pixie, Tiny Tim; for larger tomatoes-Patio, )

Two Gallon:
Beets (Ruby Queen)
Carrots (Little Finger, Danver’s half long, Nantes half long)
Radishes (Champion, Comet, Sparkler, White Icicle, Early Scarlet)
Beans (Pole beans give a higher yield in a small footprint; Blue Lake, Kentucky, Wonder, French Dwarf)

Four tp Five Gallon:
Bush cucumbers (Salad Bush Hybrid, Spacemaster, Bush Pickle)
Standard tomatoes (Celebrity, Super Bush)
Squash (Gold Neck, Early Prolific Straightneck, [Green] Zucco)
Pepper (Lady Bell, Gypsy, Crispy, New Ace, Red Chili)
Eggplant (Florida Market, Black Beauty, Long Tom)
Potato

3. Container
The container you pick relates to both the plant’s requirements and the space you have available for the container so you will have to make some choices in that regard. In addition, note that clay pots dry out more quickly than plastic and small containers dry out more quickly than large ones so if watering your containers is a problem go with large plastic. Durability and cost are also factors so understand that plastic is cheaper but less durable than clay. A large pot insulates the roots from extremes of temperature and protects them from frying in summer heat. If heat is a problem consider wooden pot. Also consider light colored pots since the light color will reflect the heat while dark colors absorb it. Over heated roots is a common problem of container plants so don’t pooh pooh this issue.

4. Water
Plants need at least 1” per week. This is more than you think. Containers tend to dry out quickly so check the top inch of soil with your finger everyday and water when the soil seems dry. Hot sunny days and breezy days increase the need to water so watch carefully when those conditions exist. Always drench the pot until the water comes out the bottom of the pot but don’t let the pot stand in water for long periods of time or the roots will rot.

5. Soil
Resist the temptation to use the soil our of your garden. Buy a high quality potting soil because cheap ones don’t drain well and poor drainage is death to many vegetables. You want a soil that is sterile (no fungi, bacteria, or nematodes) and has good drainage. You also want a fertile soil with lots of nutrients so you are going to have to fertilize.

6. Fertilizer
Container plants always need fertilizer because they are confined in a finite amount of soil and cannot send out their roots to more fertile areas. Every time you water nutrients in the container’s soil are leached out so you should accept that fact that you must fertilize your container vegetables and fertilize them well or they will not produce to their fullest potential. Every 2-3 weeks at half strength should be sufficient. When buying a fertilizer remember that nitrogen (1st number) promotes leafy growth; phosphorus (second number) promotes flower and fruits production; and potassium (3rd number) promotes root growth. If you can remember that threesome it is easy to know what kind of fertilizer you need. Leafy vegetables like lettuce will need high nitrogen, root crops like beets and carrots will need potassium, and all the rest, like peppers and squash, will need high phosphorous. This last group should be fertilized first when they are flowering and setting fruit or you will get a lot of leaves instead of fruit. Your biggest problem will be finding the fertilizer you need and this is getting more and more difficult. Finding a fertilizer high in potassium is really the bummer so I go with equal amount of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, like 10-10-10.

Read 'How to Plant, Grow and Harvest Bush and Pole Beans' at http://www.KarensGardenTips.com.

Growing beans, green or wax, is very easy and rewarding and some of them can even be grown in containers. Once you have decided on the kind of bean you wish to grow pick a sunny site with well-drained, fertile soil. Beans are warm weather crops so you have to have frost-free nights and warm soil (65 F) in order to plant them.

Planting Bush Beans (Green or Wax)
With a hoe, make a furrow the length of your garden row and about an inch deep. Place the bean seeds 2” apart and cover with 1” of soil. If you plant more than one row, space the rows 2’-2 ½’ apart to reduce the possibility of disease. This is also a good time to apply manure, compost or a fertilizer with a ratio of 1:2:1: (nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium). If commercial fertilizer is used apply it in a furrow next to the beans. High nitrogen (first number) fertilizers will produce excessive leaf growth so avoid them. Water well. When the seedlings emerge thin to 3”-4” apart.

Bush beans produce all their beans in a 2 week period so if you wish to have a continuous supply of beans sow new rows every 2 weeks (or grow pole beans because they have a longer period of production.

Bush beans can be grown in containers. Provide 8″12″ of soil and a top quality potting soil. Water and fertilize regularly.

Planting Pole Beans
Pole beans need support so plant them in hills or mounds about 3’ apart or in rows 3’ apart. Plant 3-4 seed in a mound 1” deep around a pole or plant a row of beans 4”-5” apart and 1” deep. When seedlings emerge thin so that seedling are 9”-12” apart. Apply fertilizer as for bush beans and water in.

Provide support for your pole beans and help them start their twining process by lifting them on to the support at the proper. A pole in the middle of a mound works but a teepee made of 8’ long 1”x1”s is very picturesque as well as effective. If you planted a row of pole beans, a trellis, fence, or net can provide support. The plants get large and heavy as they grow and bear fruit (beans) so make sure that your support is sturdy.

Care of Bush and Pole Beans
Fertilize you beans monthly using a high phosphorous (middle number). Water weekly at the base of the bean plants during periods of dryness. Avoid wetting to foliage to reduce the possibility of disease. Beans have shallow roots, so be careful not to disturb the roots when you cultivate and remove weeds.

The Mexican bean beetle can ravage your beans. Manually pick of the beetles and check for eggs on the underside of leaves. Remove any infected leaves.

Many of the diseases that attack beans can be avoided by proper cultivation practices; keep the foliage dry and rotate the placement of beans in your garden every year.

Harvesting Bush or Pole Beans
Harvest the beans when the pods are crisp, firm and fully elongated but before the beans inside have enlarged. Pick when the foliage is dry (to reduce the possibility of disease) and handle the beans and plants carefully to avoid breaking the branches when you nip the bean off the plant. Harvest pole beans regularly to encourage further bean production.

Beans are delicious as a vegetable side dish but can cooled after cooking and used in summer salads. Hot bean pickles are a real treat!